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Kampermauer - Hengstpass

"Je hnusně, neustále cedí a cedí, předpvěď i místní chataři se

tváří k dalšímu vývoji značně septicky (pakliže se vůbec nějak tváří) a člověka už to neustálé čekání na lepší časy po několika dnech pomalu přestává bavit.
Tož nedá se nic dělat a našinec už zase pádí z hor domů o nějaký ten den dřív. Jako naschvál se pak po opuštění hor a ujetí přibližně jednoho sta kilmetrů navíc počasí zázračně vybere. Tohle už musí jednoho řádně ..."
Možná se do poodobné situace nedostáváte ta často jako já, nicméně stane-li se vám něco pdobného zrovna v Rakousku poblíž Liezenu (nebo máte-li toto městečko náhodou při cestě domů,lze ještě
lecos napravit. Cestou domů totiž nevědomky míjíte i několik místních lezeckých oblastí kterým, když na to přijde stojí zato přeci jen trocha času věnovat. Právě jednu z těchto oblastí, KAMPERMAUER - HENGSTPASS se pokusím lehce přiblížit v tomto příspěvku. 

Jedná se o poměrně rozsáhlou cvičnou lezeckou oblast s cestami vedenými ve velmi kvalitním
a pevném vápenci. Lezecká činnost je zde datována již od počítku padesátých let tohoto století,
avšak svého největšího rozmachu oblast dosáhla teprve v 80. letech, kdy zde působili i mnozí
význační rakousští lezci.

Vlastní oblast je tvořena mohutným masivem, kde  se v současné době nalézá přibližně 80 sportovně odjištěných lezeckých cest převážně v obtížnosti od V do VIII stupně UIAA o délkách od 20 do 310 metrů. Výška vlastního masivu přesahuje místy dokonce 300 metrů.



PŘÍSTUP DO OBLASTI
Oblast se nalézá poblíž rakouského městečka Spital a. P. v sedle Hengstpaß (Laussapaß) [1024 m.n.m] horské silničky mezi městečky Windischgarsten a Altenmarkt. Ženete-li si to z Čech, tak dopraviti se lze nejlépe přes Dolní Dvořiště na Enns (silnice 124,123) - Steyr (115) - Frauenstein (140) - Windischgarstein (138). Máte-li dosti financí na dálniční známku, můžete to vzít přes Linc a dále směrem na Liezen po dálnici. Ve Windishgarsteinu se dáte vpravo po Hengstpass - Bundesstraße a asi 10 kilometrů za vesničkou Rusenau a dva kilometry za sedlem dorazíte k malému šotolinovému parkovišti a to už jste vlastně pod stěnami. Obě varianty příjezdu čítají od hranic přibližně 150 kilometrů.



STRUKTURA A SITUOVÁNÍ MASIVU
Převážná část stěn je situována směrem k jihu a skály tudíž bývají vzhledem k nadmořské výšce příjemně prohřáté. Častý je i výskyt teplých "fénů" a tak se zde často leze hodně i v zimě. Celý masiv je tvořen velmi kompaktním „dachsteinským vápencem", avšak místy lze nalézt i dolomit. Vlastní struktura skály má však velmi rozmanitý charakter, kdy si zde to své najde snad každý. V převážné většině absolutně kolmé, až místy zpět lehce přepadající stěny prostupuje pouze několik spíše menších převisů - počínaje dírkami, přes malé lišty a rozmanité druhy spár až po táhlé kouty zde lze nalést snad vše, po čem Vaše srdce prahne.


ZAJIŠTĚNÍ A DOPORUČOVANÝ MATROŠ
Zajištění bylo prováděno místy možná až s přehnanou pečlivostí (ortodoxní pískaři by sem snad neměli ani jezdit) borháky. Vzdálenost jištění se na lehčích cestách pohybuje od 3 do 4,
na těžších pak od 2 do 3 metrů. Pouze v cestě MORALPLATTE je vzdálenost kolem 5 metrů. „Postupové" i „slaňovací" štandy jsou vždy osazeny po dvou jištěních.

Přestože je skála velmi kompaktní tak do delších cest bych asi přeci jen nevyrážel bez helmy a počítejte s častými padesátimetrovými slaněními, u některých cest i převážně vedoucími volným prostorem. Vlastní zajišťovací prostředky jako frendy a stopery zde nejsou většinou za zapotřebí.


OBTÍŽNSTI CEST (UIAA)

III  -  2 (24 délek)
IV  - 10 (24 délek)
V    - 10 (27 délek)
VI  -  8 (15 délek)
VII  - 27 (49 délek)
VIII - 12 (24 délek)
IX  -  8 (9 délek)


NĚTERÉ DALŠÍ ÚDAJE
Pokud jde o nocleh, tak situace není příliš slavná. Celé údolí je dosti strmé a ani pod skalami se mnoho rovného místa nenajde. Jedině snad někam poodjet, ustlat si na svahu v lese nebo přímo na parkovišti. Nicméně dost blízko je jakýsi penzion a místním byse to nemuselo moc zamlouvat.


SLOVO ZÁVĚREM
Toť asi vše, co bych rád na tomto místě k této oblasti řekl. Čekáte-li topa a popisy setorů, tak vězte, že půjde-li všechno dobře, tak se v brzu na Lezci objeví kompletní průvodce...

A nejsou-li zde ještě žádné fotky ani nákresy, tak se snad brzy objeví.

Kamínek   [úpravy] 13:31 04.03.2002Tisk 

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Nový komentář 

 Neni to daleko
Čauves Kamínku. Konečně zase jednou pěkná pozvánka do skal. Díky.
Zapsal: H.L., 13:59:01 04.03.2002
 Povedlo se
Ja se pridavam, je to dobrej hodne popis, pokusim se dodat mapku zitra. Jestli Hopik zprovozni FTPko.
Zapsal: JirkaS, 14:01:26 04.03.2002
 RE: kubik
Ano kubiku, budeš potřebovat dvě šedesátky, nebo padesátky. Nejlépe půlky nebo dvojčata. čauves
Zapsal: Monroe, 22:08:52 04.03.2002
 Doporučení
Spát se dá pod mosty,ale určitě ne za silného deště-jsou to odvodové kanály pro dešťovou vodu z kopce do potoka.Jsou ale většinou suché.Ale i na parkáči to jde a ještě jsme tam neměli problém i při týdením pobytu.Doporučuju čtyřdýlkovou cestu Fledermaus ve stejnojmeném sektoru-je to libová lahůdka a mě osobně nadchla!
Zapsal: Fido, 23:03:24 04.03.2002
 dik...
dik za doporuceni....vyrazim tam hned jak bude nejaky delsi vikend...nejspis o velikonocich
:-)...hore zdar
Zapsal: kubik, 16:10:15 05.03.2002
 
Pěknej článek...jen tam bejval božskej klid a pohoda bez zástupů lidí, čekajících na jednu cestu. Teď už to tam takový nebude...
Zapsal: Kleboň, 10:37:34 25.03.2003
 pruvodce
Průvodce se dá koupit ve vesnici v jednom sportu cca10e, ale je to jen takova brožurka.
Ještě bych upozornil na to jištěni není to zas až tak růžove jak to liči Kaminek (a nebo jsem lezl nějaké jiné cesty). Celkem mne prekvapily jistici body. Umyslně neříkam borhaky protože to borhaky nebyly. U těch starších cest to byl horizontalně zacementovany roxory ve tvaru "U". Ještě jsem to nikde jinde neviděl a přiliš duvěry to ve mně nebudilo.
Ale jinač je tam pěkně, ikdyž když se tam opře sluničko tak je tam na zdechnuti.
Zapsal: Česťa, 11:45:29 25.03.2003
 Doporučení a roxory
Tyhle roxory jsou občas k vidění i ve Fra. Pevnostně jsou v poho, ale některé, vodorovně orientované jsou na hovno, protože, ať je cvakneš jak chceš, vždy je to blbě, teda alespoň to je má blbá zkušenost.
Jako ubytování, ať si zase nekurvíme jméno, doporučuji statek, který je vidět na pastvinách pod skalama, asi 400m za silnicí. Ubytování se spacákem v super ubytovně vyjde na 7E, dá se tam posedět, koupit pivko... Nemluví A, tak pocvičte N.
Lezení každopádně super, hlavně na jaře a podzim, hlavně vícedélky jsou bomba. Tak čus.
Zapsal: Maty, 10:58:02 26.03.2003
 Ubytování 2005
Tel. číslo na výše uváděnou (skutečně fešnou) ubytovnu "přes silnici":
0664/9077747

Cena za noc pro rok 2005 je 9E.
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Zapsal: jwZnljaEbXQzYzt, 14:42:07 15.02.2019
 VhgZwAFWLsAnFz
It as hard to come by educated people in this particular topic, but you sound like you know what you are talking about! Thanks
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Zapsal: TohTXtbhzyzCLsQGxIm, 16:59:06 15.02.2019
 cpsEeevQoTlYZSM
There is clearly a bunch to know about this. I suppose you made some nice points in features also.
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Zapsal: KERYUAkY, 13:34:20 18.02.2019
 hiAFBfid
I value the article post.Really thank you! Fantastic.
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Zapsal: rgxEEQgcTXL, 15:56:27 18.02.2019
 jwHkoQSKyxgc
in particular near my personal peers. Gratitudes a ton; coming from we all.
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Zapsal: ffmPAmECdUBJaNcvZmc, 18:47:25 18.02.2019


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